Seasonal ideas
South-east Sicily in winter: a road trip from Comiso (November to February)
South-east Sicily does not close for winter. The beach clubs of Marina di Ragusa go quiet, but the Baroque towns of the Val di Noto, the markets, the churches and the food stay exactly where they are, and you have them almost to yourself. Comiso airport (CIY) sits in the middle of it all: Ragusa Ibla is about 25 km away, Modica and Scicli under an hour, Noto and the Vendicari reserve about an hour and a half, and the snow on Etna roughly two hours north. A car turns this corner of the island into a string of easy day trips.
WoopDrive editorial team9 min read
Find a car in Sicily from Comiso
In short
- Typical daytime highs in Ragusa: about 18 C in November, 13-14 C from December to February; nights around 5-7 C in mid-winter.
- Expect rain on about 10-11 days a month; it usually comes in spells, with sunny days in between.
- Eight Late Baroque towns of the Val di Noto, including Ragusa, Modica, Scicli and Noto, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site (2002).
- The A18 motorway runs from the Modica junction to Siracusa and is toll-free at the time of writing; toll booths are being prepared.
- Where signs require it, winter tyres or chains on board are compulsory from 15 November to 15 April, which matters on the roads up Etna.
- Daylight is short: around the shortest day you get under 10 hours, so plan longer drives for the morning.
On this page
Why south-east Sicily works in winter
From November to February the tour coaches thin out, hotels in the old towns drop their prices and parking near the historic centres gets easier. The weather is mild rather than warm: good for walking up and down the stepped streets of Ragusa and Modica, not for swimming. The distances are short, so even on a rainy day you can switch plans and drive to the next town, a museum or a long lunch.
Month by month
- November - the mildest of the four months, with highs around 18 C. Olive harvest and new oil in the countryside, quiet roads and the last mild days on the coast.
- December - highs around 14 C, nights near 7 C and some of the wettest weeks of the year. Christmas lights, nativity scenes and festive programmes in the towns from early December.
- January - the coolest month, highs around 13 C and nights near 5 C. The quietest time to see Ragusa Ibla and Noto without other visitors; snow on Etna is most likely now.
- February - similar to January, with the first almond blossom in the countryside and Carnival in the towns. Acireale's Carnival, one of the best known in Sicily, runs up to Shrove Tuesday (9 February in 2027).
Ragusa, Modica and Scicli: the Baroque triangle
Ragusa Ibla
The old lower town of Ragusa sits on a narrow ridge and was rebuilt in Baroque style after the 1693 earthquake. The Cathedral of San Giorgio, designed by Rosario Gagliardi and completed in 1775, closes the main square; the Giardino Ibleo at the eastern end of the ridge is a free public garden with views over the valley. Walk down from the upper town by the stairs past Santa Maria delle Scale for the classic view of Ibla.
- Drive
- About 25 km from Comiso airport, roughly 30 minutes.
- Parking
- The streets of Ibla are a limited traffic zone (ZTL) enforced by cameras at set hours. Park in the car parks and on the blue-line paid spaces on the access roads and walk in; do not follow the navigation into the centre.
- Time to allow
- The old town is free to walk at any time; churches usually close around midday and reopen in the late afternoon.
- Families
- Lots of steps and slopes: fine for walkers, hard with a buggy. The Giardino Ibleo is the easiest place for children to run around.
Modica
Modica spreads over two hillsides, with the upper and lower town linked by long flights of steps. The Duomo di San Giorgio rises at the top of a monumental staircase, and the town is known for its grainy, cold-worked chocolate, sold with a protected geographical indication (Cioccolato di Modica IGP). Winter is a good time for a chocolate tasting and a slow lunch.
- Drive
- About 40 km from Comiso airport, around 45 minutes; about 15 km from Ragusa.
- Parking
- Use the paid car parks along the valley floor in Modica Bassa and walk up; the upper town streets are narrow and steep.
- Time to allow
- Chocolate shops and cafes are open all winter; church hours vary and often pause at midday.
- Families
- The chocolate shops are an easy win with children; the climb to San Giorgio is long but can be done at a slow pace.
Scicli
The smallest of the three and the calmest in winter. Via Francesco Mormino Penna is lined with Baroque churches and palaces, and the town hall played the police station in the Inspector Montalbano television series. Combine it with a short drive to the coast at Sampieri or Punta Secca for a winter walk by the sea.
- Drive
- About 45 km from Comiso airport, around 50 minutes; about 10 km from Modica.
- Parking
- Free and paid spaces around the edge of the centre; the main street is easy to explore on foot.
- Time to allow
- Best in the late morning, before churches close for lunch.
- Families
- Flat main street and short distances: the easiest of the three towns with small children.
Noto, Vendicari and Marzamemi
Noto
Noto was rebuilt on a new site after 1693 and is the most theatrical of the Baroque towns. Walk the Corso Vittorio Emanuele from the Porta Reale to the Cathedral of San Nicolo, whose dome collapsed in 1996 and was rebuilt before the cathedral reopened in 2007. In winter the honey-coloured stone glows in the low afternoon sun and the main street is almost empty.
- Drive
- About 81 km from Comiso airport, around 1 hour 25 minutes, partly on the toll-free A18 from Modica.
- Parking
- Paid car parks around the public gardens near the Porta Reale and below the historic centre.
- Time to allow
- The old town is free to walk; some palaces and church terraces charge a small entry fee and keep shorter winter hours.
- Families
- Wide pedestrian main street, easy with a buggy. Ice cream and granita are sold all year.
Vendicari reserve and Marzamemi
South of Noto, the Vendicari nature reserve protects beaches, salt marshes, a Swabian tower and an 18th-century tuna fishery. Greater flamingos and waders can be seen almost all year, and December is one of the best months for birdwatching from the hides by the salt lakes. Finish in Marzamemi, a small fishing village built around its old tuna factory and square.
- Drive
- About 90 km from Comiso airport to the main Vendicari entrance, around 1 hour 30 minutes; Marzamemi is a further 15 minutes south.
- Parking
- Car parks at the official entrances of the reserve; the access roads are partly in poor condition, so drive slowly.
- Time to allow
- Entry to Vendicari is through the official entrances for a small fee; there are no cafes inside, so bring water and snacks. Many restaurants in Marzamemi close or open only at weekends in winter.
- Families
- Easy, flat paths between the hides; bring binoculars for the flamingos.
Etna in the snow
When snow falls on Mount Etna, usually between December and March, you can drive from the mild south-east to a snowy volcano in about two hours. The road from Nicolosi climbs to the Rifugio Sapienza area at around 1,900 m on the southern side, where the Etna Sud ski area and the cable car start; Etna Nord at Piano Provenzana, above Linguaglossa, is the second ski area. Lifts and slopes run only when there is enough snow and close when volcanic activity makes it unsafe, so check the day before you go.
Winter events worth planning around
- December and early January: towns put up Christmas lights and nativity scenes. The living nativity of Ispica is staged in the rock landscape of the Cava d'Ispica over the Christmas holidays (in 2025-26 it ran from 21 December to 6 January); check this season's dates before you go.
- February: Carnival parades in many towns. In Acireale, about two hours from Comiso, illuminated papier-mache floats and flower-covered floats parade on the Carnival Sundays and every day of the final week up to Shrove Tuesday, 9 February 2027.
- Just after the window: the Almond Blossom Festival (Mandorlo in Fiore) in Agrigento, next to the Valley of the Temples, is planned for 2-7 March 2027, about two hours' drive from Comiso.
Driving in south-east Sicily: what to know
- Use dipped headlights outside built-up areas, day and night.
- Speed limits: 50 km/h in towns, 90 km/h on ordinary roads outside towns, 110 km/h on main roads and 130 km/h on motorways; in rain the limit drops to 90 km/h on main roads and 110 km/h on motorways.
- Historic centres such as Ragusa Ibla are limited traffic zones (ZTL) watched by cameras. A fine follows the car, so park outside and walk in.
- Blue lines mean paid parking; pay at the machine or with the local parking app and keep the ticket visible.
- The A18 from the Modica junction to Siracusa is the fastest road east and is toll-free at the time of writing.
- The legal alcohol limit is 0.5 g/l, and zero for drivers with less than three years of experience.
- Keep the warning triangle and reflective vest from the car within reach; you must wear the vest if you get out on a road outside town at night or in poor visibility.
What stays open, what closes
- Open all winter: the old towns, churches (with a midday break), chocolate shops in Modica, cafes, markets, supermarkets and most town restaurants.
- Shorter hours: museums, church terraces and some palaces; many restaurants close one day a week. Call ahead for any rural restaurant or agriturismo.
- Mostly closed: beach clubs and many seasonal restaurants in Marina di Ragusa, Sampieri and Marzamemi; weekends are livelier than weekdays.
- Weather dependent: Etna lifts and slopes, and walks in the Cava d'Ispica after heavy rain.
Frequently asked questions
Is south-east Sicily worth visiting between November and February?
Yes, if you come for towns, food and landscapes rather than the beach. Days are mild, around 13-18 C, the Baroque towns are quiet and parking is easier than in summer. Bring a waterproof layer for the rainy spells.
Can I swim in winter?
Only if you like cold water. Most beach clubs are closed and the sea is cool from December to February; the coast is better for walks.
Do I need winter tyres or chains?
Not for the towns and the coast of the south-east. If you plan to drive up Etna, roads signed for winter equipment require winter tyres or chains on board from 15 November to 15 April. Check the car at pick-up and the WoopDrive rental conditions for mountain roads.
Can I drive into Ragusa Ibla or Noto?
Avoid it. Historic centres have camera-controlled limited traffic zones (ZTL), and the fine reaches you through the rental. Park on the access roads and walk in.
How far is Etna from Comiso airport?
The Rifugio Sapienza area on the southern side is about 122 km away, roughly two hours by car.
Sources
- Late Baroque Towns of the Val di Noto (South-Eastern Sicily), UNESCO World Heritage Centre (checked Oct 29, 2026)
- Ragusa climate, Climates to Travel (checked Oct 29, 2026)
- Autostrada A18 Siracusa-Gela, Wikipedia (checked Oct 29, 2026)
- Gomme invernali in Sicilia e sull'Etna, LiveUniversity Catania (checked Oct 29, 2026)
- Driving in Italy, The AA (checked Oct 29, 2026)
- Riserva di Vendicari, Birdingplaces (checked Oct 29, 2026)
- Ispica Living Nativity, Visit Sicily (checked Oct 29, 2026)
- Carnevale di Acireale 2027, Enjoy Sicilia (checked Oct 29, 2026)
- Mandorlo 2027, date ufficiali, AgrigentoOggi (checked Oct 29, 2026)
- Comiso airport to Noto, Transfeero (checked Oct 29, 2026)
- Comiso airport to Mount Etna (Rifugio Sapienza), Bluekeys (checked Oct 29, 2026)
Rules, prices and opening hours change. Check the official source before you travel. Drive times are approximate.